I am entranced by it. The gothic architecture is amazing. It is monolithic in nature, beautiful, intricate and stark at the same time. The massive amount of time-worn smooth stones contrasted by the inumerable nooks and crannies, beheaded saints and stone gargoyles peering meanicingly down upon the square in front of the cathedral.
A statue of Charlemagne stands gaurd as you approach, it is mottled green and harsh. His disapproving countenance dares you to pass, behold his works, ye mighty, and despair.
The inside of the cathedral is bright and colorful, the stained glass windows adding an air of joy to the solemnity of crucifixtions and beheadings.
I admit I enjoyed the interior, especially the Rose Windows, but the exterior was what held my attention...and for odd reasons. It is probably the premeire example of French Gothic architecture and why was I drawn to this? ...Gingerbread. I had toyed with the idea of creating Notre Dame in gingerbread for a competition and now with excellently detailed photographs I feel renewed interest in the project. We circle the structure so I can get numerous pictures. There is a garden around the cathedral that, in the Spring, I am sure is amazing...a thought that will occurr to me numerous times this week as we are in Paris early and there is still a chill in the air. The lines to many attractions are short, but the flowers are not yet in bloom.
As we round the cathedral, there is a line of tourists. The line is to climb the cathedral steps. It is 8 euros, a deal, and not very long to wait. I think, "sure, what a cool expereince this will be". The sweet smell of crepes being made nearby distracts me and I fail to read the sign which indicates you will be climbing up 422 steps. Now, the end result was great. The views from up top are amazing and the experience was terrific. In the moment of climbing those steps however, I was less than sure it was such a good idea.
I have never claimed to be the healthiest of persons...I was well past my fanatical high impact step aerobic days. There was a moment, on the second set of stairs...stairs so small, no one would be able to get by if I stopped. Stairs that circled and circled and circled and circled...seemingly endlessly, stairs that I craved a brightening in the light and the breath of cold air that indicated the stairs had ended...a moment, I thought I would have to turn back. But my near heart attack inducing effort was rewarded with views I don't think I will soon forget.
CAFES
After Notre Dame, we refulled at a nearby cafe. Here is what I have to say about cafes...they are everywhere and they are excellent. We never planned anywhere specific for lunch. We just knew we could stop at almost any cafe, and there are bunches of them, and would get a good meal. I recommend the croque madam. Oh, and learn the phrase carafe d'eau, which means 'carafe of water'. It will get you a small bottle of cold tap water and will save you many euros throughout the week as you avoid bottled water...which is what they will bring you if you just ask for water.
THE LATIN QUARTER & THE PANTHEON
We strolled through the Latin Quarter, past the University of Paris and the Sorbonne but our destination was the Pantheon, a huge Greek-like structure. It housed the tomb of Voltaire, among many others among the crypts (...which you need to climb stairs down into...and I felt every one of those stairs after Notre Dame). There are numerous paintings and neoclassical architectual elements here...as well as many graves of notable Frenchmen (and Frenchwomen, after Marie Curie's remains were moved here in 1995).
THE GARDEN/PALACE OF LUXEMBOURG
We are still feeling energized and continue our walkabout by touring the garden of the Palace of Luxembourg. This is apparently where Parisians hang out on weekends. It's a large area and there are these (apparently very well known) light green chairs everywhere that you can just relax in. The grounds are large with grassy areas, trees, fountains, statues and the Palace of Luxemborg to enjoy. Again, it was still chilly and the tress were bare and only the hint on Spring was in the air, but I could well see how relaxing this area would be. The Palace, former home of Marie de Medici, itself is closed to the public, (except for one Saturday a month when guided tours are given) and is the seat of the current Paris Senate. We relax here fo a bit, it is serene...and there are few stairs here at least.
THE ARC DE TRIOMPH & CHAMPS ELYSEES
Our last touristy stop for the day. A short metro ride brings us near the Arc. It's big, really big. We were feeling a little worn out. It is possible to climb in the actual arc (more stairs), but we weren't feeling it (well I wasn't). We crossed the incredibly busy traffic circle by the underground passage (stairs down and then stairs back up) and strolled around the arc for a few photo ops. It's cool, and big...really big but I think I was just feeling a little worn out from the day's activities so just wasn't feeling it. Perhaps it is tied closely to the French heart, it touches on many battles both won and suffered by the French...but maybe they just think it's a busy traffic intersection that they try to avoid, I'm not sure.
A stroll down the Champs Elysees. The highpoint was a relaxing and delecious cup of coffee in the George V cafe as Peter and myself were not very interested in the numerous insanely expensive stores. It seems mandatory to stroll this boulevard however, so check that off our tourist list, otherwise, unless you wish to spend thousands of dollars in a foreign country, I wouldn't list this as a "must-do" when in Paris.
CHEZ ROBERT & LOUISE
Dinner at the very homey country restaraunt was great. I got this recommendation from Anthony Bourdain's show on the Travel channel 'No Reservations'. It is small, be prepared to be seated with other people at the same table, although I read this is fairly common in France. As a side note, the French have a comfort level with being close to one another. Not that they want starngers next to them, it's just the way it is and is not viewed as odd. There were two men stitting at a four top table when we sat down. They said nothing to us. After they left four others were seated at the table. They were two couples who were really nice and we ended up chatting with them for a bit. The food is very homey and delicious, although I think Peter found the steak to fatty. This is the kind of place you would probably never enter if you passed it on the street, it was filled with locals and just has a really authentic feel to it. Check out you tube for Anthony's video...we sat at the very table Mr. Bourdain sat at and had the same cut of steak he ordered: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pf3TVNAfV7g&feature=related. Our table neighbors were freindly and suggested several places for us to eat for the rest of the week.
With bellies full and legs burning from the numerous steps we headed back to our hotel.
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